An unpaid bill, a stolen stone, and a famous fashion designer rest peacefully alongside a heroine of Highlands history.
This is, in short, Kilmuir Cemetery, in the quaint Isle of Skye, Scotland.
Well, most visitors to the site are there for the latter, Flora MacDonald, and the Celtic cross on her memorial fittingly dominates the view.
Dubbed not by chance the “Heroine of the Highlands,” she was responsible for assisting Bonnie Prince Charles in his escape from Scotland after the second Jacobite uprising failed, in 1746.
This was after the Jacobites were defeated at the Battle of Culloden.
Bonnie Prince Charlie had led the second Jacobite uprising to defeat King George II in 1745 but ultimately failed, and he fled from the battlefield in Culloden, arriving in South Uist after 2 months on the run.
It was here he met Flora MacDonald.
Her family had fought for King George so she was a surprising ally for Charlie.
With the Prince disguised as Betty Burke, an Irish spinning maid, they set sail in a small boat from Benbecula on 27th June 1746, not to the mainland but to Skye, landing in Kilmuir at what is today called not by chance Rudha Phrionnsa, or Prince’s Point. They hid overnight in a cottage, then the Prince was able to get a boat to the island of Raasay and from there, passage back to France.
Charles is said to have presented Flora with a locket containing his portrait but, in any case, they never met again, as he died in Rome on 31 January 1788.
When news of the escape broke, Flora was arrested. Firstly she was imprisoned at Dunstaffnage Castle, Oban and then briefly in the Tower of London, until she was released in 1747 and returned to Scotland.
In 1750 she married Allan MacDonald and her fame was spreading. In 1773 she was visited by the celebrated poet and critic Samuel Johnson and, later in 1774, the family emigrated to North Carolina with their elder children, leaving the younger ones behind in Scotland.
They arrived in the New World as the American Revolution was starting up and like many Highlanders, took the side of the British. Flora’s husband Allan joined a regiment of Royal Highland Emigrants, but he was captured at the battle of Moore’s Creek.
Flora was forced into hiding while the American rebels destroyed the family plantation and she lost everything.
It was 1779 when she returned with her daughter to Dunvegan Castle, on Skye, but her adventures continued also on this journey, as the ship she was travelling on was attacked by French privateers.
It is said that she refused to go below during the fighting and was wounded in the arm.
In 1783, newly released, her husband Allan followed her back to Scotland.
Flora MacDonald died on 5th March 1790 and is buried at Kilmuir on Skye, her body wrapped in a sheet in which Bonnie Prince Charlie had slept.
Given her popularity as a Jacobite heroine, it is not surprising that a large memorial was erected by her grave, which became a popular destination for tourists and not only.
Dr Samuel Johnson of dictionary fame, who met her during his famous tour of the Hebrides with James Boswell, wrote on her memorial:
“Flora MacDonald. Preserver of Prince Charles Edward Stuart. Her name will be mentioned in history and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour.”
However, diging deeper and you’ll find several other interesting stories resting within this cemetery.
Perhaps the most interesting historic feature is the Maclean Burial Enclosure, notable for the date 1793 on the lintel.
But, behind the ruins of a chapel in the old section of the cemetery lies also a knight with a sword and helmet, Angus Martin.
The carving decorates the grave of the man, called Aonghas na Geoithe, literally Angus of the Wind, on account of his penchant for going to sea regardless of the weather, and he is said to have married a Danish princess.
A tomb slab of this style is unusual for this area and more likely to be found on another island like Iona or Islay but, according to a local legend, Angus stole it from the grave of an early Scottish king on Iona and brought it here, to Kilmuir, for his own use, although historians believe that is unlikely, as a stone from that age would be worn down to nearly nothing.
At least, our Angus got a completed memorial.
In another part of the old section lies the grave of Charles MacArthur, whose gravestone reads “Here lie the remains of Charles MacArthur, whose reputation as an honest man and remarkable piper will outlive this generation, for his manners were light and neat as his music and his fingers will”.
Below that, the remainder of the stone lies blank, nothing. Clean.
The MacArthurs were traditionally bagpipers for the MacDonalds of Skye, and Charles was the last of the hereditary pipers.
According to the legend, when Charles passed away, his son commissioned a stonemason to carve his memorial, as was customary at that time.
However, shortly after, the son drowned in the waters off the coast of Skye.
The stonemason, who assumed he’d never be paid for completing the job, stopped work and the inscription remains unfinished to this day.
If this wasn’t enough, In the newer section of the cemetery sits another interesting memorial to another life cut short.
Fashion designer Alexander McQueen was born and raised in London, but he had a strong connection to his father’s home in the Isle of Skye and included nods to his Scottish heritage in much of his work.
Upon his tragic death at age 40, his ashes were scattered in Kilmuir and a stone was carved by sculptor Andrew Tansor.
In any case, with its panoramic view across the waters off of the Isle of Skye, a wander through Kilmuir Cemetery can feel like walking along the edge of the world.
Take your time and carefully explore both sides of the cemetery, as the detailed stonework and ageing headstone are a beautiful sight to behold.
The cemetery has also amazing views over The Minch, a peaceful sanctuary for reflection and remembrance, and Its quiet beauty is worth enjoying, whether it’s a short visit or an eternal rest.
Before heading back out into the busy world, in first case….
Images from web – Google Research