Pierre Loti Hill: have tea in a cemetery with a dazzling view of Istanbul!

3 min read

4 weeks ago Ivan

We are in Türkiye.
Pierre Loti Hill is a pretty tea garden with a spectacular view over the Golden Horn, popular also to be located inside one of Istanbul’s oldest and biggest graveyards!
Well, If drinking tea in a cemetery sounds a touch macabre, rest assured that actually the ambiance is far from it, as this lovely spot is popular with locals of all ages.

The hill is named after the French author and navy officer Pierre Loti (1850-1923), who fell in love with Istanbul after his first visit in 1876.
From Japan to Senegal, India to China, USA to Iran, as a marine officer, traveled around the world. He was introduced to the Ottoman realms for the first time when he visited İzmir in 1870 and, six years later, he reached a turning point in his life: he arrived in the capital of the Ottoman State. He was on a mission on Le Gladiateur, the patrol ship of the French Embassy and, after this time, Istanbul became an inseparable part of his life. Between 1876 and 1919, he went to Istanbul many times, simply because he fell in love with this fascinating city.
However, instead of settling in the Pera district like most Europeans, he moved to the holiest neighborhood of the city, Eyüp, as he was captivated by the view from the hill, which he litereally described as “thousands of gilded caiques dancing on the water; then the whole of Stamboul foreshortened, mosques, domes, and minarets, all huddled together in one confused blur.”

To reach the hill, take the cable car from the Eyüp Sultan complex or, in a more quaint approach, take a 15-minute walk through the graveyard to reach the top.
Along the way, you’ll see the graves of some of Istanbul’s most famous politicians, writers, scientists, and public figures and, as you arrive, you will be greeted by the aroma of freshly brewed tea and the chatter of people.
The large café area is filled with people sipping tea and eating gözleme, at the vista point too.
Located northwest of the Golden Horn, the view from Pierre Loti Hill is actually different from the Bosphorus classics. With the tranquil waterway, lavish greenery, and peaceful residences, visitors can see a different side of Istanbul.
While Pierre Loti Hill is well-known for its spectacular views, the Eyüp Sultan complex located below is a place to experience Istanbul’s holiest scene.
The complex is named after Ebu Eyyub el-Ensari, who was a companion of the Prophet Muhammad and died during a failed Arab siege of Constantinople.
The mosque and tomb are open to visitors and are considered one of the most sacred destinations for Muslim pilgrims.