Ferrara, Italy’s Pumpkin Capital: a centuries-old Autumn tradition

Pumpkin spice lattes may be hard to find in Italy, but autumn has a flavour all of its own in Ferrara, a historic city in the Emilia-Romagna region. Here, pumpkins are more than a seasonal ingredient: they are part of the local identity, deeply rooted in the agricultural traditions of the fertile Po Valley.

For centuries, the area’s rich soil and favourable climate have encouraged pumpkin cultivation, helping earn Ferrara’s residents an affectionate nickname: magnazoca, meaning “pumpkin eaters” in the local dialect. The name reflects the vegetable’s enduring importance in regional cuisine, above all in one celebrated speciality: cappellacci di zucca.
These generous parcels of fresh egg pasta are filled with sweet pumpkin, grated cheese, breadcrumbs and a hint of nutmeg. Their name, cappellacci, is traditionally associated with the straw hats once worn by country workers, which their rounded, folded shape is said to resemble. In the local dialect, they are known as caplaz.

The dish dates back to the Renaissance, when Ferrara flourished under the Este dynasty.
One of the earliest written references to pumpkin-filled pasta appears in Dello Scalco, a cookbook published in 1584 by Giovan Battista Rossetti, who served at the court of Duke Alfonso II d’Este. The recipes of the period included spices such as ginger and pepper, reflecting the tastes of Renaissance cooking. Despite pumpkin’s reputation as a humble, everyday ingredient, these dishes were considered worthy of prestigious tables and formal occasions.
The variety traditionally associated with Ferrara’s cappellacci is the violina, named for its elongated shape, which resembles a violin. Beyond its culinary value, this distinctive squash once had practical uses: its hollowed-out form could serve as a container for liquids such as water and wine, as well as for gunpowder. It is an unexpected reminder of how an agricultural product could become part of everyday life in ways that extended far beyond the kitchen.
The appeal of cappellacci lies in the balance between sweet and savoury flavours. They are traditionally served with melted butter and sage, allowing the pumpkin filling to take centre stage, or with a rich meat ragù that contrasts with its natural sweetness. Both combinations reflect a regional culinary heritage in which carefully balanced flavours have been cherished for generations.

Today, Cappellacci di Zucca Ferraresi hold Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, recognising their close connection with the territory and its culinary traditions. Their preparation continues to rely on local ingredients and skills passed down through generations, preserving a distinctive part of Ferrara’s gastronomic identity.
For visitors exploring northern Italy in autumn, Ferrara offers a different kind of pumpkin celebration from the familiar American craze for seasonal drinks and sweets. Here, the vegetable takes centre stage in a tradition that connects fertile farmland, Renaissance banquets and family kitchens. And for the magnazoca, there is perhaps no better way to welcome the season than with a plate of freshly prepared pumpkin cappellacci!

Images from web – Google Research